Here's a video I made of the complete brew of the Caribou Slobber kit from Northern Brewer.
Monday, January 16, 2012
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Monday, January 9, 2012
DIY Stir Plate ver 2.0
This is an update to my first DIY stir plate for a yeast starter. This version seems to work more reliably, and it stirs a greater volume of fluid. The fan I chose has more torque, the magnets more power and the potentiometer more resolution (25 ohm verses 75K ohm in the last one). I still think I can do better. I'm going to try an even stronger magnet and a potentiometer with more resolution (50 ohm).
My goal is to be able to stir a 6 gallon carboy. This will allow me to degas wine during secondary fermentation and to oxygenate a freshly pitched beer...and it's just cool to be able to do it.
The magnets in this version have an 8 lb pull. I'm stepping up to 50 lb pull in ver 3.0.
My electrical engineer friend tells me that my 25 ohm potentiometer will supply a 7.2V to 12V range resolution. With the 50 ohms potentiometer, it will increase to 5.18V to 12V.
My goal is to be able to stir a 6 gallon carboy. This will allow me to degas wine during secondary fermentation and to oxygenate a freshly pitched beer...and it's just cool to be able to do it.
The magnets in this version have an 8 lb pull. I'm stepping up to 50 lb pull in ver 3.0.
My electrical engineer friend tells me that my 25 ohm potentiometer will supply a 7.2V to 12V range resolution. With the 50 ohms potentiometer, it will increase to 5.18V to 12V.
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Blow-Off Tube Installed
As expected, I had to install a blow off tube. The krausen was creeping up the neck of the carboy. I literally waited until the last possible moment to do this. I sanitized the blow-off tube with Star San, and I filled the bucket with Star San.
The blow-off tube could be a little longer. I had to slide the carboy and bucket under a table, which was just the right height to keep the blow-off tube bent down into the bucket.
The blow-off tube could be a little longer. I had to slide the carboy and bucket under a table, which was just the right height to keep the blow-off tube bent down into the bucket.
First Brew: Belgian Golden Strong Ale
Here's my first brew. I had help from brew buddies Adam and Aaron.
I have it sitting in a plastic tote in case it overflows, but I think I'll have to install a blow-off tube. It's really generating the krausen, and I'm worried it's going to try and escape.
I have it sitting in a plastic tote in case it overflows, but I think I'll have to install a blow-off tube. It's really generating the krausen, and I'm worried it's going to try and escape.
DIY Stir Plate in Action
Here's the stir plate in action. This is with two smack packs of Wyeast, a qt of water and a cup of DME (Dry Malt Extract).
DIY Stir Plate for Yeast Starter
Below is a link to a video showing the inside of the DIY Stir Plate I built for stirring my yeast starter.
Parts:
1. One fan from pc case (case cooling fan with two wire: hot and ground)
2. One 12v power supply from an old wall charger
3. Two earth magnets from an old hard drive
4. One 1.5-inch washer (to super glue to fan)
5. Some 18 gauge wire (similar to power wires inside a PC)
6. An old DVD case (I recommend something without a metal top)
7. An on/off switch
8. A 12 ohm potentiometer (optional) to control fan speed
9. Bolts and nuts to mount the fan.
10. A way to connect wires (solder, or wire nuts or electrical tape)
Special Tools Required
1. Torx #9 screwdriver to remove hard drive screws (Torx size could vary by manufacture)
2. Two large pliers to bend hard drive brackets to remove magnets
3. Super glue
Matching Power Cord with Fan
Before you start, make sure the power cord will work with your fan. The voltage must match exactly. In other words, probably a 12v DC power cord. However, it must be able to supply at least as much amperage as the fan requires. This is usually printed on the fan. For example, my fan reads: DC 12V 0.14A. This means my fan requires 140 milliamps. My power cord has printed on it 12v DC 300 mA, which means it can deliver up to 300 milliamps.
Wiring Assembly Tips:
1. Connect the black wire (or ground or neutral wire for your fan) to the ground wire of your power cord.
You should have two wires on the power cord, and two wires on your fan. If you only have two wires on your fan, you probably will not hurt the fan by test touching bare wires to the fan's two wires (one wire to one wire) to see which wire connects to which. If your fan wires are not red and black, Google the manufacture and model number of the fan to see which wire is hot.
Note: If you have more than two wires on your fan, the other wires are probably for sensing fan speed and temperature. You can probably ignore the speed and temp wires, as long as you can figure out which wires are hot and ground.
2. If you are installing a potentiometer, connect the fan's red wire to the middle leg (usually has three legs) of the potentiometer, and connect the right leg (when viewed from the bottom, opposite of the turn knob) of the potentiometer to one side of the on/off switch. The other side of the on/off switch will connect to the hot wire of the power cord.
Tip: Before you connect the potentiometer, make sure the switch works as you expect by turning on the switch, touching the hot wires to each side of the switch to make sure it works. Do not connect the black wire to the on/off switch.
3. If not using a potentiometer, connect the red wire to one side of the on/off switch, and connect the power cord's hot wire to the other side of the on/off switch.
Removing the rare-earth magnets from a hard disk
Note: You can buy rare-earth magnets at hobby stores like Michaels, or here in Minneapolis, at Axe Man Surplus. They are not expensive. If you must buy a torx screwdriver to remove the rare-earth magnets, it may be easier and less expensive to just buy the magnets.
1. Use a Torx #9 screwdriver to remove all screws from the top of the drive, and from beneath any labels that hide screws (there are usually one or two under labels).
2. Remove any screws that secure the read arm inside the case.
The magnets are part of the read arm, usually located in a the corner that serves as the base of the read arm.
Caution: Rare-earth magnets can really pinch your fingers if you get trapped between them. Be careful.
3. Remove the magnets from their brackets by bending the bracket edges using two sets of pliers.
Each magnet is mounted on a crescent-shaped bracket. Grip each side of the bracket, bend one side down until you can see a gap beneath the magnet. Don't bend so much that you crack the magnet.
4. Slide a razor knife under the edge of the magnet and pry up to loosen the glue.
They usually come loose easily once you can get a blade under and edge. You shouldn't have to use much force with the blade. If you do, you risk cutting yourself. Bend the edge until you can slip the blade under easily.
Fan assembly
1. Super glue the washer to the top of the fan, taking care to center it.
2. Center the rare-earth magnet on top of the washer.
Note: In the video I mention that I used Velcro. This did not work. Do not use it. It causes the magnets to warble and the stir magnet will go flying when the fan gets up to speed. The magnet on the fan must be rock solid in place and it should be centered.
Parts:
1. One fan from pc case (case cooling fan with two wire: hot and ground)
2. One 12v power supply from an old wall charger
3. Two earth magnets from an old hard drive
4. One 1.5-inch washer (to super glue to fan)
5. Some 18 gauge wire (similar to power wires inside a PC)
6. An old DVD case (I recommend something without a metal top)
7. An on/off switch
8. A 12 ohm potentiometer (optional) to control fan speed
9. Bolts and nuts to mount the fan.
10. A way to connect wires (solder, or wire nuts or electrical tape)
Special Tools Required
1. Torx #9 screwdriver to remove hard drive screws (Torx size could vary by manufacture)
2. Two large pliers to bend hard drive brackets to remove magnets
3. Super glue
Matching Power Cord with Fan
Before you start, make sure the power cord will work with your fan. The voltage must match exactly. In other words, probably a 12v DC power cord. However, it must be able to supply at least as much amperage as the fan requires. This is usually printed on the fan. For example, my fan reads: DC 12V 0.14A. This means my fan requires 140 milliamps. My power cord has printed on it 12v DC 300 mA, which means it can deliver up to 300 milliamps.
Wiring Assembly Tips:
1. Connect the black wire (or ground or neutral wire for your fan) to the ground wire of your power cord.
You should have two wires on the power cord, and two wires on your fan. If you only have two wires on your fan, you probably will not hurt the fan by test touching bare wires to the fan's two wires (one wire to one wire) to see which wire connects to which. If your fan wires are not red and black, Google the manufacture and model number of the fan to see which wire is hot.
Note: If you have more than two wires on your fan, the other wires are probably for sensing fan speed and temperature. You can probably ignore the speed and temp wires, as long as you can figure out which wires are hot and ground.
2. If you are installing a potentiometer, connect the fan's red wire to the middle leg (usually has three legs) of the potentiometer, and connect the right leg (when viewed from the bottom, opposite of the turn knob) of the potentiometer to one side of the on/off switch. The other side of the on/off switch will connect to the hot wire of the power cord.
Tip: Before you connect the potentiometer, make sure the switch works as you expect by turning on the switch, touching the hot wires to each side of the switch to make sure it works. Do not connect the black wire to the on/off switch.
3. If not using a potentiometer, connect the red wire to one side of the on/off switch, and connect the power cord's hot wire to the other side of the on/off switch.
Removing the rare-earth magnets from a hard disk
Note: You can buy rare-earth magnets at hobby stores like Michaels, or here in Minneapolis, at Axe Man Surplus. They are not expensive. If you must buy a torx screwdriver to remove the rare-earth magnets, it may be easier and less expensive to just buy the magnets.
1. Use a Torx #9 screwdriver to remove all screws from the top of the drive, and from beneath any labels that hide screws (there are usually one or two under labels).
2. Remove any screws that secure the read arm inside the case.
The magnets are part of the read arm, usually located in a the corner that serves as the base of the read arm.
Caution: Rare-earth magnets can really pinch your fingers if you get trapped between them. Be careful.
3. Remove the magnets from their brackets by bending the bracket edges using two sets of pliers.
Each magnet is mounted on a crescent-shaped bracket. Grip each side of the bracket, bend one side down until you can see a gap beneath the magnet. Don't bend so much that you crack the magnet.
4. Slide a razor knife under the edge of the magnet and pry up to loosen the glue.
They usually come loose easily once you can get a blade under and edge. You shouldn't have to use much force with the blade. If you do, you risk cutting yourself. Bend the edge until you can slip the blade under easily.
Fan assembly
1. Super glue the washer to the top of the fan, taking care to center it.
2. Center the rare-earth magnet on top of the washer.
Note: In the video I mention that I used Velcro. This did not work. Do not use it. It causes the magnets to warble and the stir magnet will go flying when the fan gets up to speed. The magnet on the fan must be rock solid in place and it should be centered.
The Journey Begins
I believe that one key to happiness in life is to create things. When you create something, it generates fulfillment, and perhaps even a little sense of purpose. If the creation is beer, you are sure to find appreciation and smiles.
My initial step into the brewing community has revealed a large group of friendly, intelligent people who are always helpful and love to speak of their craft. What's not to like about that?
My first brew will be the Belgian Strong Golden Ale Extract Kit w/ Specialty Grains - From Northern Brewer. It requires a 2-stage fermentation and a yeast starter.
A yeast starter is like making a miniature batch of beer a day or so before you brew, with the plan of using the growing yeast population from this tiny batch in your main brew later. This ensures more yeast and healthier yeast for your brew. The yeast starter requires oxygen and sugar (from dry malt extract, usually). To give the yeast a lot of oxygen and further enhance its growth, people use a stir plate to stir the yeast mixture.
Store-bought stir plates run from $90 to $160 and up. However, if you look on YouTube, you'll see that it's very popular to make your own stir plate from a computer fan and a rare earth magnet (readily available in old hard drives). I'll document here my version of the DIY Stir Plate. I hope you find it useful.
My initial step into the brewing community has revealed a large group of friendly, intelligent people who are always helpful and love to speak of their craft. What's not to like about that?
My first brew will be the Belgian Strong Golden Ale Extract Kit w/ Specialty Grains - From Northern Brewer. It requires a 2-stage fermentation and a yeast starter.
A yeast starter is like making a miniature batch of beer a day or so before you brew, with the plan of using the growing yeast population from this tiny batch in your main brew later. This ensures more yeast and healthier yeast for your brew. The yeast starter requires oxygen and sugar (from dry malt extract, usually). To give the yeast a lot of oxygen and further enhance its growth, people use a stir plate to stir the yeast mixture.
Store-bought stir plates run from $90 to $160 and up. However, if you look on YouTube, you'll see that it's very popular to make your own stir plate from a computer fan and a rare earth magnet (readily available in old hard drives). I'll document here my version of the DIY Stir Plate. I hope you find it useful.
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